Brackendale eagles inspire awe

NATURE I You don't have to be a bird watcher to enjoy eagle spectacle

Saturday, January 10, 2004

Contrary to what most people -- even many Vancouverites -- think, all points north on the Sea to Sky highway do not lead to Whistler. There are points in between that deserve a detour and can even be considered a destination point -- namely Brackendale and the surrounding Squamish Valley.

As Brackendale's eagles can attest, it's all about location, location, location. At a glance, the bare cottonwoods hugging the banks of the Squamish river look like they're decorated with hundreds of white Christmas lights, but further investigation reveals the white specks are bald eagles -- some perched on twigs bending under their weight, others at the river's edge, picking apart the cache of spawning salmon that lie dead after their final ordeal. Six species of salmon return to the Squamish watershed, but today chum is prevalent, and on every angler's hook.

The Squamish salmon feast has attracted bald eagles from as far south as Arizona and as far north as Alaska, but most come from BC. In 1994, 3,769 birds were counted -- 1,200 more than ever before, and according to Victor Elderton, North Vancouver Outdoor School principal, the population has not decreased over the years. This year's count came in at 1,709, but it is estimated that including eagles that eluded watchers would bring the total closer to 3,000.

Although our group went early in the season (November until March), we still managed to count more than 200 eagles. You can drive to Squamish and walk the trails to count the eagles, and narrative walking tours are available, but the best way to eagle watch, and one that is unobtrusive, is to take a leisurely raft trip down the Squamish and/or Cheakamus river. And for high rollers, the sky's the limit (literally) with Heli-rafting -- or take in a leisurely horse-back trip and stay overnight.

Our group opted for the package deal that began with an overnight stay at the posh Signature Club at Delta Vancouver Suites hotel, then a shuttle bus to Brackendale for a river raft trip with the Canadian Outback company. After a leisurely breakfast, we arrived in Brackendale, about one hour's drive from Vancouver. Some of the group took the Canadian Outback shuttle bus from Vancouver and we all converged in the Eagle Run Café's parking lot. After turning into Michelin men, covered with layers of woollies and fleece from head to foot, our guides further equipped us with waterproof jackets and leggings. The short jaunt from bus to raft was like a moon walk. Once on board though, comfort reigned supreme over looks and we slowly idled downstream toward Howe Sound, but not before a quick lesson on safety and a few pointers on paddling. Our guides -- one for each raft -- are professionals. At our helm was Evan Phillips, an instructor at raft guide schools since 1993 and one of eight provincial rafting examiners; and Steve Corbett, manning the second raft, founded Canadian Outback with his brother in 1991. They know these waters well.

And Victor Elderton knows eagles. He refers to them as keystone species -- they are the linchpin that holds everything together. By taking salmon bodies and distributing them up to 3,000 km away, as far away as Montana, the distribution of these nutrients feeds the ecosystem.

Each eagle eats more than half a kilo of fish a day, and even this early in the season the shore is littered with carcasses. The best eating is the eye, we are told by Elderton, like an hors d'ouevre for the main course -- the fish's intestines, which are pulled out through a small puncture made by their sharp beaks. Now and then a mature eagle takes flight, (oohs and aahs all round, like a National Geographic moment) often followed by a juvenile raptor.

With a wingspan up to two metres, and considerably heftier than their parents, the youngsters are a formidable sight, and it seems like they have their parents wrapped around their talons -- supply and demand is the norm. And they mainly stay close to the roost. Eagles tend to cluster, up to 10 or 12 birds per branch, perhaps for security, as they are usually sleeping off the fish feast. In the morning the eagles are more active, feeding from the water or taking a bath, and they move up into the trees about mid-morning.

Two hours and two hundred eagles later, we meandered to the shore where the shuttle bus awaited, heat radiating and hot tea pouring. A few miles down the road, we stopped for lunch at the local Squamish pub where every wall was lined with pictures of every wild creature imaginable, but only one eagle photograph. "Why aren't there more eagle pictures?" someone asks. "There's enough here already," the waitress replies.

Our next stop was Brew Creek Lodge. Hard to imagine it was once an illegal still, and the location of a now abandoned town from the '50s called Garibaldi station. Rumour has it that it was originally built by a consortium of dope dealers who used to bring pot in from Asia in tankers. How times change! Today Brew Creek is a rustic yet elegant retreat, perfect for some serious R & R. After a soak in the hot tub, hot toddy around the huge stone fireplace in the lounge and the best night's sleep since childhood, we sat down to a wonderful and gargantuan brunch, with the usual eggs, bacon and sausages complemented with platters of gourmet organic cheeses, smoked salmon, home baking (even the apples were hand-picked on Salt Spring Island) and vegan carrot loaf that garnered many recipe requests.

Some of the guests headed back to Vancouver on the shuttle bus, stopping at the Brackendale Art Gallery on the long drive back -- road construction and bad weather can add a few hours on to the trip. All said, it was a great overnight getaway, away from the urban sprawl of Vancouver and the hectic hype of Whistler. You don't have to be a bird watcher to enjoy the eagles of Brackendale--it's nature at its finest.

Our trip, including two nights accommodation either at Delta Vancouver Suites or Brew Creek Lodge, eagle tour, transport to and from the hotel and a hot lunch, came to $400 Cdn single occupancy, or $294 double.

For more information, visit www.canadianoutback.com

Visit Brew Creek Lodge at www.brewcreeklodge.com

The eagle festival runs Nov. 15 to Feb. 15.

Jane Mundy is a Vancouver freelance writer.

If You Go

For the price of gas, take a one-hour drive from Vancouver and arrive at the Eagle Viewing Dyke across from the Easter Seal Camp between Squamish and Brackendale.

Go to the Garibaldi Way intersection -- there is a Burger King on the left hand side -- and turn left at the lights. Drive one block and turn right at the stop sign. Drive down Government Road to the Easter Seal Camp. Park along the front of their property; there is also a parking lot further up the road.

There is an information kiosk on the dyke, complete with eagle-watch volunteers during weekends and holidays. For hot lunches, coffee and goodies, find the Eagles Coffee Grounds at one end of the dyke, and two blocks further up is the Eagle Run Coffee Company. Warm up with hot chocolate 'to go' from either coffee shop.

For more information and an eagle viewing map, go to the Visitor Information Centre (604/892-9244) in downtown Squamish. And for more information on the Winter Eagle festival and eagle count, call the Brackendale Art Gallery at 604/898-3333, and website: www.brackendaleArtGallery.com

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