Slow Food Fast

If you aren't familiar with the Slow Food Movement, you would think this title an anomaly, so I'll begin by describing in a snail shell (the snail being their logo), what Slow Food is about. It started in Italy a few decades ago when a protest was organized against the building of a McDonald's near the Spanish Steps in Rome. Since then this grass roots movement has spread to over 80,000 members worldwide, "an international response to effects fast food has on our society and life". Slow Food began by defending the "right to pleasure" and according to its Manifesto (you can read it in its entirety at www.slowfood.com), believes our defence should begin at the table, by rediscovering "the flavours and savours of regional cooking and banish the degrading effects of Fast Food." It is also about culinary and biological preservation: Carlo Petrini, the founder of Slow Food, said that "we must be environmentalists to be gourmets".

The Slow Food criteria for a restaurant is a combination of atmosphere with locally inspired cuisine, quality wines and reasonable prices. The first Slow Food journal described qualities such as "tradition," "simplicity," "friendliness," "moderate prices," and most importantly, "territory" to describe a good restaurant. In this sense, territory means the same as the French terroir: a combination of natural factors such as soil, microclimate and vegetation, combined with human factors such as tradition and agriculture. If you read Eric Schlosser's Fast Food Nation, his expose on "McWorld", you will understand the importance of food grown, raised, made and cooked in one place.

But let's be realistic. Slow Food is not against McDonald's because it hates the food and believes that families should congregate around the dinner table every evening for a mandatory hour or two. Rather, it believes in carefulness vs. carelessness, and attentiveness vs. haste: be attentive to food and make selections to ensure the best ingredients and flavours. And it isn't opposed to meat; it is opposed to food that tastes the same throughout the world —McDonald's mandate. And it is opposed to the unnecessary transport, often thousands of miles, of meat and animals this entails, both harmful to the environment and the animals.

Slow Food makes sense. Remember that adage "You are what you eat" and think again when you frantically pull into the next drive-through, yell out an order to some pimply faced kid who has to do the up-sell: "want a 66 ounce cola with your super-sized meal"? Instead, we have listed a few options, including a few chain restaurants which may come as a surprise. We tend to think of them as fast food outlets, but some items on their menus meet the Slow Food criteria. And every eatery mentioned has access to parking. To speed up the process and leave more time to enjoy your meal, phone ahead and avoid the rush-hour crowds: get there before noon or after 1.30pm.

Granted it may take a bit longer compared to McDrive-through, but every eatery guarantees you in and out in 45 minutes. And your body will love you for it.

West Side

Aphrodite's Organic Café
One of the few places in town that can call themselves 100 per cent organic, many items on the menu are straight from Glenn Valley farm -- Allan may be picking salad fixings in the morning, destined for your plate the same day. Every item is in season, from home baked breads to soup. Even the olive oil is organic. The chicken is from Thomas Reid and the water is from the farm well! It really is "food from the farm". Chef David Alsop's mantra is "simpler and simpler, fresher and fresher". Besides each vegetable being a new taste sensation, order any variety of hand made, spelt flour pizza: the Green Goddess is chock-a-block full of deepest green Swiss chard, arugula, spinach, dandelion greens and the sheep's milk feta comes from McClellan farms. Some items are a bit pricey but worth every penny because there's a whole lot of TLC in each bite. And be sure to pick up one of Chef Alsop's fruit pies next door.
3598 West 4th Avenue $$
604.738.5879

Burgoo
In the style of an old French country farmhouse, from the wood panel on the front door to the cozy stone fireplace to the thick, white, oversized serving cups and bowls, Burgoo epitomizes comfort food. The ‘yummy carrot soup’ lives up to its namesake and all of the stews are likewise yummy. The trio of owners, Justin, Stephan and Ken, thought Vancouver was ready for a soup and stew house, hence burgoo, which literally means thick stew. Popular with the university crowd for quality and quantity, both soups and stews can also be purchased in 16oz containers at the front door, from $4.50 for soup and $6.75 for stews. $$-$$$
4434 W. 10th, 221-7839

Mix Bakery
Right next door to Burgoo, healthy, hearty and heaping describes everything on the menu. Eat in or takeaway, the Chimayo chicken sandwich marinated in lime and chipotle with cilantro avocado is reason enough to come here on a regular basis. Also selling out daily is the turkey cobb salad and lemon herb chicken salad. If it's on the menu, try the tortilla soup. And we haven't even got to the incredible desserts. Rose is the talented, classic French trained pastry chef and husband Peter creates a baker's dozen artisan breads. Simplicity with great ingredients is their mandate: try the peanut butter pie and come early for the flourless chocolate oblivion cake -- wondrous. This is the place to pick up the start and finish to any great home meal; all you have to do is the entrée but Mix can even supply that.
4430 West 10th Avenue $
604.221.4145

Earl's
With almost 50 locations across western Canada, it won't take long to slide into Vancouver's favourite chain of eateries. And after a quick perusal of their menu, it is understandable why we had to include a chain in this article: Earl's fits just about every criteria of the Slow Food Movement. Try the Greek pizza with heirloom tomatoes from Oliver, the organic baby veggies from Langley and the berries from Abbotsford in their wondrous berry pie with caramel sauce. How local is it? Tomatoes and peppers are growing on their patio. Here's another thing about Earl's: they pride themselves in supporting local business such as beef items front and centre on their feature sheet to rally behind Alberta's cattle producers. Earl's has a community spirit by featuring local foods and wines whenever possible, all moderately priced, and treating their customers and staff well and respectfully.

Cactus Club
OK, we included one more chain restaurant because you've got to have the "killer fish tacos" and the mussels at these easily accessible eateries. Two blue corn tortillas stuffed to the gunnels with fresh local halibut and Coho salmon with an addictive blend of smoky-spicy chipotle and cool-down tropical fruit salsa. All for ten measly bucks! The Cactus Club kitchen crew know how to treat live product; it's important to prepare food correctly and this is reflected in the Penn Cove (Washington State) mussels: one heaping pound of plump bivalves with roasted red peppers in a Thai red curry broth with three ciabatta breadsticks (baked locally) to soak up every delicious drop. There's never more than a half hour wait, no matter how long the line-up.

Picnic
A recent addition and right next door to Meinhardt's, Picnic is worth mentioning if only for their humungous table, the second biggest table in town. Worth mentioning because the Slow Food Movement is also about sharing a meal with friends and family and even strangers. Picnic is a perfect place is strike up a conversation with the person sitting next to you. Eat in or takeaway, the Mediterranean bean salad is stand-out, as is their comfiest hot chocolate.
3010 Granville Street
604.714.3131

Delis

Kaplan’s
For the best hot smoked meat sandwich west of Montreal, homemade strudels and rugelach (cookies). Mrs. Kaplan’s homemade vegetable soup and chopped liver is heart-warming.
5775 Oak Street, Vancouver, 604-263-2625

Sabra’s Kosher
On one side, the only completely kosher restaurant in British Columbia, and the other side is the deli and kosher grocery store. Main attractions are the knishes, (flakiest pastry and yummy fillings) falafel and shwarma (donair) in pita. Kosher poultry and meat products.
3844 Oak St., Vancouver, 604-733-4912

Omnitsky Kosher
Large variety of kosher grocery products, all deli meats smoked or cured in-house. Owner Eppy Rappaport also stocks gluten free wieners – he recommends the jumbo dogs.
5866 Cambie Street, Vancouver, 604-321-1818

Downtown

RainCity Grill
One of the best restaurants in town and focusing on local, seasonal cuisine is prime candidate for Slow Food so stroll over to their take-out window and get it in less than 15 minutes. The smoked tomato braised organic beef ribs with artisan baby veg sautee is a sure thing, and where else can you get take-out crispy Cowichan Valley duck leg confit?
Everything goes well with their ketchup fries and grilled asparagus.
1193 Denman Street
604.685.7337
www.raincitygrill.com

Gallery Café and Catering
Upscale cafeteria style with good selection of panini, quiche and substantial salad bowls, are a big hit with the office lunch crowd. The café boasts the biggest patio in town where you can watch the commotion of Robson Street while surrounded by the peaceful, protective stone columns and walls of the Vancouver Art Gallery. Minimal wine list, all by the glass. $-$$
750 Hornby, 604-688-2233

Cicchetti
Rich red and gold interior complete with chandeliers, comfy booths and wing-back upholstered chairs make a gorgeous backdrop for mainly Italian style fast food; the "autostrada" panini sandwich is a good example, combining four classic Italian meats with provolone cheese and hot peppers on artisan sourdough. Muffins and scones are the size of a softball (and cheaper than that "S" place). And full breakfast, ready in less than ten minutes, is a welcome addition for the downtown office crowd bustling to work. Check out the ample selection of takeaway, from fresh, crispy salads to smoked salmon risotto cake or classic meat lasagne. Stop for a glass of wine and tapas on the way home and pick up dinner and dessert. Among the few sweet treats offered: French caramel apple torte, crème brulle and a delicious hazelnut cake. Cicchetti also offers an extensive catering menu and the room is perfect for private parties any day after 6pm.
1016 West Georgia Street $-$$
604.684.3880

Phnom Penh
The bustling clang of pots and pans mingle with lunch crowd conversation in this favourite Chinatown eatery. Décor is basic but who cares? The hot and sour soup and the garlic squid with lemon-pepper sauce can’t be beat. The service is fast, friendly and furious; you can be in and out in 20 minutes. Or linger and have a Vietnamese coffee; hot or cold, it's the perfect finishing touch. $-$$
244 East Georgia Street, 604-682-5777

Relish
New kids on the block, (five young partners, all locals) Relish quietly opened in the former Urban Well spot and gone is the cavernous interior. Instead they have installed an aquarium that neatly reflects light and a great stone fireplace warms the room. With underground parking and an order of Flintstone sized ribs, you can be in and out in 40 minutes. These ribs are memorable: baked then braised in dark beer from Russell brewery then baked again with chipotle and real maple syrup. Finger lickin' good, and it comes with Asian slaw as good as KFC. (Did I say that?) And if you have an hour to spare, order the duck confit salad: unctuous, flaky and tender, atop a heaping bowl of organic greens. Then loosen your belt for the ice cream sandwich the size of a Bedrock wheel.
The wine list features 10 or more by the glass with some interesting small lots, all priced to invite wine drinkers.

Urban Fare

This list wouldn't be complete without mentioning the only grocery store in BC that is truly civilized. Where else can you sit down surrounded by grocery bags choc-a-bloc full of local products and sip a glass of BC wine while enjoying a Dawson Creek ham dinner from one of many deli selections? All the salads are excellent: try crunchy yet tender broccoli slaw or potato salad as good as Mum's. The nightly carvery is a big hit with the locals, and they can even deliver to your door (within the area) in five minutes! Their rotisserie chicken is a favourite. Urban Fare constantly sources local food producers: on their shelves you will find preserves from a "Mom and Pop" operation in Kimberly, organic butter from a farm in Grand Forks (how butter used to taste, is supposed to taste) and fresh hummus in the deli from one of the staff's uncle. Granted, Urban Fare is part of that bigger company but it's more than a supermarket. Keeping it local is the key.